It's been a month of work and now a lot of do-overs. Let me get into it.
Over a month ago we felt pretty good since we got the engine running on the floor and we were getting ready to lower the engine onto the frame. Well, that all went pear shaped. For the past week and a half after getting all the wiring connected to the engine, we did get the engine to fire up, but only for 3 seconds at a time, unless we sprayed ether into the manifold in which it could run as long as we were spraying it - so it was getting spark. So debugging and wild diagnosis began. We thought it might be a fuel problem, so even though we could hear the fuel pump running in the fuel tank, we put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rails. With the key on we had 40lbs of pressure and over the 3 seconds it went down to 25-30lbs, enough to keep it running, but still not a positive sign, especially as we were gunning the throttle.
We then thought we might have a vacuum problem, so we went around hooking up all the vacuum lines - no change.
All the time we were doing research on-line, was it the pats( passive anti-theft) system, the O2 sensors, were there any broken wires or bad connections, how long did the engine computer need to be disconnected so it could reset, was there a kink in the fuel lines, a rag left in the tank, the air intake MAF( mass air flow) sensor, or the IMRC ( intake manifold runner control).
We hooked up the SCIL(steering column, ignition, and lighting computer) and donor car ignition key to see if it was pats, still no change, so we were confident that the anti-theft system was not causing the no-run condition. We also knew the hardest part of getting the engine working is getting it to run and we had it running for 3 secs every time.
It was classic debug and diagnosis; wild theories were brought up, laughed about and then checked out as we were running out of ideas.
Since the signature of the problem had something killing the engine, we started to think back to it running on the floor and started to realize that maybe we have had this problem for a while. We would only let it run on the floor for a few seconds for a number of reasons including not wanting the engine to get damaged (rolling over, overheating); since it was running rich, we didn't want to poison ourselves. There was no reason to run it more - we figured if we got it to run 3 seconds why was 5 seconds better, until we now couldn't get it to run for more.
The signature of this problem had us go back to pats and look to see if we were missing something. We took apart the SCIL and our assumption that since there were four connectors on the SCIL box - two for each circuit board. We figured that each circuit board had it's own power supply and since all the anti-theft signals were on the bottom circuit board, we thought that was the only circuit board needing to be powered - wrong. We took it apart, and there were a couple of ribbon cables connecting both boards, so we hooked up all the power to the SCIL box. We also noticed there is an anti-theft indicator light output and a hood and door alarm input. We hooked all these up - still not working, but we connected a test light to the anti-theft indicator light wire and it flashed indicating the alarm was being set off.
The SCIL box on the right, the PCM on the left all the red power wires to the SCIL box the test light in the middle |
We relooked at the service manual to figure out what does what to make the pats system work. It's a bit complicated as there are 5 different set ups depending on the make and model. The system we have was only produced for the 1997 and 1998 Lincoln MarkVIII - this limits the collective knowledge on the system and ways around it. For example this is the only system where you need two programmed keys to make another one, unfortunately for us, we only have 1 key limiting our options if the key is the issue. As an aside the reason for 2 keys is that the engineers were concerned that if you valet the car the attendant could go get a copy with just one, with this requirement the owner would be the only one with 2 keys to have a copy made.
Here is how the system works. The key has a chip and magnetic exciter embedded in the hard plastic of the key. The ignition switch has a round antenna ring that is wired in a loop to the SCIL computer. When the key is in start mode the SCIL sends a signal and within 800 milliseconds a J1850 PWM code is sent back from the key to the SCIL. The SCIL compares it to the programmed value of the key. If it's the same everything is cool, if not a kill the engine signal goes to PCM( powertrain computer module). With the anti-theft light acknowledging the event, we knew the SCIl was sending the kill signal, but why?
We then hooked up the OBD (on-board diagnostics) connector and then saw what repair codes the PCM was collecting. It triggered code P1260, which is Theft detected vehicle immobilized. We then tried to isolate it to the key, hood latch or door lock, problem was we needed to turn the key for it to trigger - no luck here. We went through the service manual diagnostic trees and most of them had you replacing the key - something we couldn't do because we needed two keys to make a new one, or replacing the SCIL ( hard to find with a key). Since we were only using the donor car ignition switch to fool the system that the key was on, we started to take it apart. (BTW we use a simple ignition switch to start the car.We found that it did not need any power for the ring antenna to work with the key, so on a lark, we removed the ring antenna and placed the key right in it - see the picture below.
The white part is the ring antenna, the black part has the embedded chip |
At this point, it started and works consistently and reliably - hallelujah a holiday miracle.
There are a few other mulligans (do-overs), but we will save that for the next blog post.